According to an ancient Roman “urban legend,” the dogs that drink from the River Nile do it on the run for fear that a croc will snag ‘em if they slow down long enough to take more than one lap at a time.  This fable is, of course, an age-old recognition of the legendary cunning and ferocity of the Nile crocodile.

So far as I know, their range does not extend as far as the Nile’s source in Uganda (or Burundi depending on whose geography you believe).  Even so, one of my traveling companions yelped like canine croc food when something splashed in the papyrus as he reached out to put his hand in the river.

Now I could talk about the majesty and mystery of the Nile all day long.  And I could go on ad nauseum about the bravery and tribulations of the adventurers who sacrificed so much to discover just where the mighty river was born.  But today, I’m writing about the monument in Uganda that marks the location where many believe the Nile begins.  It’s called The Speke Memorial.

The ostensible reason for that impressive marker is to note the spot where John Speke claimed to have first laid eyes on the source of the Nile--the geographical “Holy Grail” of his day.  In face, this remarkable obelisk is a monument to a sadder reality.  It commemorates a grand achievement in professional life that was unable to compensate for a profound sadness and insecurity in personal life.

On September 16, 1864, John Speke died of a self-inflicted gunshot wound.  He was scheduled to appear the next day to present scientific justification for his claim that he had discovered the Nile’s source.  It was generally believed that his proof would be unsatisfactory.  Was his death accidental or suicide?  No one knows.  But what we do know is this.  Speke went to considerable lengths to damage the reputation of Sir Richard Francis Burton, his former friend and colleague.

It was Burton who organized and led the previous expeditions that made Speke’s discovery possible.  Burton was a man of almost super human accomplishment. He could speak more than 25 European, African and Asian languages.  He published more that 40 books on a wide variety of subjects such as falconry, bayonet tactics, swordsmanship, travel and geography.  He traveled to  Mecca disguised as a Muslim and attended prayer in Islam’s holy shrines at a time when discovery would have meant certain death.

Sir Richard scandalized Victorian society by translating such erotic works as The Kama Sutra and The Perfumed Garden into English.  He outraged the male-dominated etiquette  of his day by advancing the preposterous notion that marital relations could and should be as satisfying to the wife as to the husband.  Shocking!

Burton was, understandably, deeply loved by Isabel, his wife who was, throughout their marriage, his constant companion, his tireless supporter, and, above all, his dearest friend.

Speke was apparently terrified of being overshadowed by the enormity of Burton’s personality and accomplishments.  His campaign to discredit Burton even led him to suggest that Burton had tried to poison him--presumably out of jealousy.

In the end, Speke was honored with a monument.  But I doubt if he ever got what he really wanted.   He seems to have been running along the banks of his life. Afraid to pause more than a moment for fear something frightening would overtake him.  Maybe it did on the morning he died.

As for Burton, he and Isabel lived, worked and shared adventures together until he died of a heart attack in 1890, thirty-six years after Speke’s death.  They are buried together in a tomb in the shape of a Bedouin tent complete with camel bells that tinkle when the wind blows.

After his death, it was said by one of Burton’s admirers, “Honor, not honors, was his life’s ambition.”  I think he would prefer Isabel’s love and this epitaph to Speke’s monument.

The manly man knows that professional accomplishments are of little value if they are not complemented by true love and real friends.  Okay, okay.  I know it’s a cliché.  But it’s a sentiment that needs to be expressed often and taken to heart.

Today (March 19) is Sir Richard’s birthday.  It is also David Livingston’s birthday, another legendary adventurer and explorer.  Wyatt Earp’s too.  Quite a collection of examples for a manly man to look up to.

Keep this in mind.  There a plenty of rivers where you can take your time and drink as deeply as you wish.  You may not leave your mark, but you’ll quench your thirst. 

I’m Hink and I’ll see ya.

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